At the time of writing, we are camped by the shores of the Black Sea in Bulgaria. The nearest resort is Sunny Beach, a flavour of which is given by two places of entertainment I noticed when I cycled in to find a cash dispenser – Bonkers Disco and The G-Spot Sports Bar. Although we are but a €100 taxi ride from Sunny Beach (or, if you have met Bulgarian taxi drivers before, a €7 taxi ride from Sunny Beach {according to a well-known travel guide}), not a photon of light escapes from its hotel-stuffed hills. It is half-past nine at night at the beginning of October. The night is moonless. There are no vessels out at sea. We have learnt that under these conditions, the Black Sea is pretty dark.
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